While I was working in Bhuj in Gujurat I headed off to explore the desert villages famous for their embroidery. Bouncing along in our jeep we picked up local tribals that squashed in the back with me. Dressed in purple and hotpink turbans,gold and ruby earrings,dhotis and curly toed shoes with chiseled faces and piercing eyes I couldn't stop staring at them and they at me. A riveting experience. And these were just the men.
The men are shepherds, always looking after their sheep and goats using their crooks to herd them into line as they slowly meander over the road. It is such a pleasure to just follow them at snails pace checking out every detail.
When we finally arrive at a village taking endless detours the first
person we see is the head woman with her cows. She is a blast of
colour, embroidered head to foot in swirling skirt, jewels, tiaras and
anklets....not to mention the cows with beaded necklaces and horns. She
takes us into the village which are mud and thatched huts on the
outside and inside the walls are sculptured mud designs inserted with
tiny mirrors everywhere. All sublime.
No electricity or running
water. It's down to the well with the earthenware pot on the head and a
good old gossip with the girls. Some villages are just starting to get
running water and the women don't like it as they are shut up inside
their huts and can't meet and gossip at the well anymore. The
temperature is over 50 and I can barely cope with the heat. The women have
little embroidered fans made with fabric and mirrors.
It was monsoon
when we were there - mozzies and malaria are common. The women only have the neem leaf
and their light cotton shawls to protect themselves.Flooding regularly causes the mud huts to disappear. Rebuilding damaged huts is always necessary after the monsoon.
The children, who are drop dead gorgeous, make
their own beaded jewellery. There are no schools in the area, so they help out at home.
All the beautiful
work in the village is done on synthetic fabric using synthetic threads. They buy
it in the market and it is cheap. For the women to afford cotton
thread and fabric requires an NGO organisation to work
with them. This is a very slow process. The tourist industry is just
starting to open up again since the devastating earthquake of 2001. And
tourists want to buy cotton not synthetics.
After being served
delicious tea in saucers we said our goodbyes and the wonderful head
woman, with tears in her eyes, said to the translator I was too short in
their lives. This of course broke me up totally.